Autumn in Radnorshire: golden hills, woodland walks and long pub lunches

Come for the colour. Stay for the quiet. Discover autumn at Fforest Fields and the villages, woods and welcoming pubs of our corner of Mid Wales.

There is a moment on an autumn walk when you stop thinking about how far you have gone. The sun has found a gap in the clouds. A hillside that was brown a minute ago turns copper. Somewhere below, a gate closes, and the sound carries across the valley. You stand still for a little longer than you meant to.

Radnorshire is good at moments like that.

This part of Mid Wales rewards a slower sort of holiday: following a woodland track because it looks inviting, taking the scenic route between villages, leaving enough time for pudding. Autumn brings all of that into focus. The days grow shorter, the light drops lower, and an ordinary afternoon outside can feel wonderfully full.

Here at Fforest Fields, near Hundred House and Builth Wells, you can begin with the landscape on your doorstep. Then, when curiosity takes you further, there are riverside towns, old village churches, waterfalls and country pubs to build a day around.

Begin here, in our hidden valley

Fforest Fields sits in a hidden valley below Aberedw Hill, on and around our 500-acre working farm. Woodland, fields, lakes and open hill country give the place its shape. Tracks lead out across the land, and a walk can start with the simplest of decisions: boots on, which way today?

In autumn, give yourself time to notice the changes underfoot. Fallen leaves gather in the sheltered edges of a track. Rain brings out the scent of earth and wood. Between showers, the colours seem freshly washed: green pasture, dark hedgerows, the softer tones of the hills beyond.

Pick up a map at reception and choose a route that suits the day. A short wander has its own pleasures; you needn’t reach a summit to feel you have arrived somewhere.

For a view, find your way to the Lookout,. From here, you can look across the campsite and the Radnorshire hills, seeing how the place fits into its valley. Take a flask, find a comfortable pause, and give the sky a chance to change.

There is something particularly satisfying about walking from where you are staying. No car to pack, no parking space to find, no journey between breakfast and the first breath of fresh air. You can go out for half an hour and stay out for two, or turn back when the thought of a warm drink becomes irresistible.

A little time beside the lakes

Our two lakes offer another way to enjoy the season. The Long Lake is the swimming and paddling lake; the other is a quieter place for coarse fishing and watching the water.

Autumn suits a lakeside pause. On a still day, reflections hold the sky. When a breeze comes through, the whole surface changes. Sit for a while and your attention begins to settle on smaller movements: a ripple, a shifting reed, a leaf travelling further than you expected.

The lakes are habitats as well as places to enjoy. Herons and other wildlife share this corner of the farm, so quiet observation is part of the pleasure. Bring binoculars if you have them, or simply bring the willingness to wait.

For families, this can be an afternoon of small discoveries. Look for different leaf shapes, sketch a hillside, see how many shades of autumn you can find. A pocket notebook and a flask of hot chocolate can take you surprisingly far.

Aberedw: a village with a pub at its heart

For a nearby outing, make time for Aberedw. Its church, St Cewydd’s, and the Seven Stars Inn have long been central to village life. It is a place to arrive without hurrying, enjoy the village surroundings and settle in for a meal.

The pub’s story gives that meal an extra layer of meaning. When the Seven Stars faced being lost to residential conversion, members of the community rallied, raised funds and bought it. It reopened at Easter 2019.

There is an earlier chapter, too. During a previous closure in the 1990s, anonymous poems appeared on the boarded-up windows, asking someone to rescue the pub. The writer became known as the Edw Bard. The pub records that those poems are displayed above the lounge-bar fireplace: a small, rather wonderful reminder of how much a village inn can matter.

Plan around Sunday lunch if you want a daytime meal here. Ask us about local walking options before setting off, particularly if you hope to make the pub part of a longer outing from the farm.

Builth Wells: the river, the Groe and an unhurried afternoon

Builth Wells is our nearest town, around four miles from Fforest Fields. It makes an easy excursion for a browse, a coffee and a walk beside the Wye.

Make time for the Groe, the riverside park. It gives the town room to breathe, with open space beside the water and trees that reward a closer look. Among them are giant redwoods planted in 1903, an unexpected detail in this Welsh market-town landscape.

On an autumn afternoon, a riverside stroll can be quite enough of an itinerary. Watch the movement of the water, wander back towards the shops, and pick up something for supper before returning to the farm.

Builth also makes a useful gentle-day option when your legs would appreciate a break from the hills. A holiday can comfortably contain both a long walk and an afternoon that barely gets beyond a favourite café table.

Llandrindod Wells: a little Victorian charm

Llandrindod Wells brings a different character to a day out. Its spa-town heritage shows in the architecture and parks, giving a wander through town a pleasing sense of occasion.

Begin with a circuit of the lake, then leave time to explore the streets. In autumn, the combination of water, trees and Victorian buildings makes an appealing change from the open hills. It is a good place to slow your pace and look up at the buildings rather than hurry between stops.

If the weather turns, the Radnorshire Museum offers a closer look at the area’s history. Check its opening hours when planning your visit, then combine it with lunch or a warming drink in town.

For a mixed-weather day, this is an easy rhythm: some fresh air, somewhere interesting indoors, and no great pressure to cover miles.

New Radnor and a waterfall worth finding

Head towards New Radnor for a day with a woodland heart. Nearby Warren Wood is home to Water-Break-its-Neck, a waterfall whose name alone deserves a place in your travel notebook.

The short Waterfall Walk follows a steep-sided gorge and returns by the same route. Natural Resources Wales lists it as 0.6 miles in total, making it a manageable outing when you would like a walk without committing to a whole day on the hill.

After rain, the waterfall can be particularly impressive; following a dry spell, it may be much gentler. That changing character is part of its appeal.

Look beyond the water, too. Victorian planting helped shape this woodland, and some of the trees have grown to a magnificent size. Longer trails offer more climbing and a different perspective through the wood.

The wider name, Radnor Forest, carries a useful surprise. Historically, a royal “forest” was land set aside for hunting, rather than necessarily a continuous expanse of trees. Keep that in mind as you look out towards the open country beyond the woods.

Pair your outing with lunch at the Fforest Inn, or continue towards Old Radnor and the Harp Inn. Choose your lunch stop before setting out: rural food service often follows a shorter weekly timetable than you might expect.

Old Radnor and Presteigne: make a day of the eastern border country

Old Radnor is a lovely reason to extend a day towards the eastern side of the county. The Harp Inn gives you a country-pub destination, with views across the surrounding landscape and a seasonal menu that makes lunch feel like part of the outing.

Further on, Presteigne offers a different kind of discovery. Once Radnorshire’s county town, it holds a remarkable piece of local history at the Judge’s Lodging.

Inside, the museum explores the world of Victorian judges, servants and the people who passed through the justice system. The domestic rooms and courtroom bring very different lives into the same building. It is an absorbing choice for a day when you want a little history alongside your fresh air, and a useful option when the forecast encourages a longer indoor stop.

Allow time for Presteigne itself as well. A visit feels richer when the museum is part of a wander rather than your only stop. Check seasonal opening before you go.

Rhayader and Elan Valley: a day for a bigger horizon

For a longer excursion into the wider Mid Wales landscape, head towards Rhayader and Elan Valley. This is country on a grander scale: reservoirs, dams, wooded slopes and open uplands, with plenty of reasons to stop and take in the view.

Autumn invites you to look closely as well as widely. Elan’s ancient broadleaved woods are dominated by sessile oak, with mosses, lichens, ferns and fungi contributing to their richness. The damp climate helps create those wonderfully textured woodland scenes: bark, stone and branches softened by green.

Choose a walk to suit the conditions and your energy, and leave room in the day for Rhayader or nearby Cwmdauddwr. The Triangle Inn makes a useful food stop on selected afternoons.

Elan Valley is also an International Dark Sky Park. If you are keen on astronomy, check the estate’s events and visiting information before planning an evening trip. A clear autumn night can be a reason to stay out a little longer; a warm layer and a sensible return plan make it more enjoyable.

Four country pubs to build an autumn lunch around

A good pub lunch deserves its own place in the plan. These four stops pair naturally with different days out from Fforest Fields.

The Seven Stars Inn, Aberedw - for Sunday lunch close to home

The community-owned village pub serves home-cooked food and traditional Sunday roasts. Come for lunch, and leave a little time to appreciate the story of the place. Its published daytime food service is Sunday lunch, so don’t assume that Saturday bar opening means Saturday lunch is available.

Menus and booking information · 01982 560762

The Fforest Inn, Llanfihangel Nant Melan — for a woodland walk and a hearty meal

At the junction of the A44 and A481, this former drovers’ inn is a practical pairing with Warren Wood and New Radnor. The pub makes its food in-house and draws on nearby suppliers. Friday and Saturday lunch and a Sunday carvery are advertised. Dogs are welcome in the bar, where tables are limited, so book the right space if yours is coming too.

Menus and booking information · 01544 350526

The Harp Inn, Old Radnor - for a long lunch with a view

A family-run country inn with a changing seasonal menu and views that invite you to linger. Make it the centrepiece of a day exploring the eastern side of Radnorshire. Lunch is advertised on Fridays and Saturdays, with Sunday lunch also available; booking ahead is particularly sensible on Sundays.

Menus and booking information · 01544 350655

The Triangle Inn, Cwmdauddwr - for an Elan Valley day out

Close to Rhayader, this old drovers’ inn serves homemade food and sources ingredients from local farms where possible. Its published food service starts at 1pm Thursday to Saturday, making it a useful later-lunch stop. Monday to Wednesday service is evening-only. Dogs are allowed in the bar rather than the restaurant; mention them when booking.

Menus and booking information · 01597 810537

Food-service information checked in October 2026. Confirm lunch times and book directly before travelling, especially around holidays or if you need a dog-friendly table or have dietary requirements.

Make room for a day without a destination

For all the places you can visit, save some of your stay for Fforest Fields itself.

Have breakfast slowly. Take the track you passed yesterday. Bring a book outside while the light is good. If the afternoon turns wet, let that be permission to settle in rather than a reason to feel you have missed out.

Autumn evenings arrive early enough to enjoy properly. You can return from a walk, put supper on, and still have a whole evening ahead. On a clear night, step outside for a few minutes and look up. Let your eyes adjust. Give the day a quiet ending.

That is often what stays with you: how good it felt to spend your time without rushing it.

Your autumn base at Fforest Fields

However you like to spend the night, there is a way to make the landscape part of your stay.

• Camping and touring: bring your own familiar setup and wake up with the countryside close at hand.
• Glamping yurts: enjoy canvas, a proper bed and a log-burning stove, with your own equipped kitchen space.
• Ffynnonau Cottage: settle into an old stone cottage with a log burner and room for up to five.
• Fforest Lodge: choose a comfortable self-catering base for days exploring the farm and the surrounding countryside.

Check your preferred accommodation for available dates and seasonal arrangements. Our coffee shop and bar are seasonal, so check what will be open during your visit.

Bring sturdy boots, waterproofs, warm layers and a torch. Keep dogs close around livestock, leave gates as you find them and give yourself enough daylight for the journey home. For hill walks, carry a map and choose a route that suits the weather.

Then leave a little space in the plan.

For a second cup of tea. For the sun coming through. For a pub lunch that lasts longer than expected.

Autumn is here. Come out and breathe it in.